Wednesday, March 27, 2024

March 27th, 2024 Fertilizers and Planting Tables

Our new Strawberry rows
We're spending the year working on things which improve growth, which are not the soil itself, as our New Year's Resolution Project. A few weeks back I spent a few words describing how much of what we will do involves using mycorrhizal (root fungus) powder to increase our effective root systems. We began planting right after my last post so here's a short update: 

We learned last year that Blood Meal as source of organic nitrogen works, even if a bit slowly. We also learned that Fish Bone Meal worked to soften transplant shock, allowing our plants to recover after being planted and begin growing more quickly. After I wrote the last post we began adding the mycorrhizal powder in planting holes along with a bit of Fish Bone Meal when we planted our ten new rows of strawberry plants. A week later we have really great growth to show for the effort. In the case of the seven hanging baskets we planted, to use some plants we had no place for, plant growth is explosive. The Strawberries we have planted this year have doubled in size in just over a week. So this part of the experiment has worked well so far. But the Mycorrhizal fungi hasn't really had time to develop effectively so things will likely get better in the next few weeks. Since we put those strawberries in the ground we have begun planting seed in the greenhouse and there's quite a few new things going on in there too.

We're trying a new way to plant onions
In an attempt to speed seed sprouting up a bit, maybe get a bit lower seed attrition, we began soaking our seed in a one percent solution of hydrogen peroxide. The idea here is that hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) has one more oxygen atom than water and this spurs seed into sprouting quicker. There's a secondary benefit to this as well. Hydrogen peroxide kills off any viruses or fungi living on the surface of the seeds so we aren't putting bad stuff into the soil which might retard growth of cause plant diseases. In one case, the feminized Maui Pineapple Chunk Kush marijuana seeds sprouted five out of five. Since this is a eight dollar seed which we usually only get a three of five return on we are doing really well.  In three days we had sprouts, in five days we had secondary leaves. We're also getting a much higher rate of sprouting with tomato seeds too. Since we just planted about four hundred seeds this week we don't have better numbers to report, but it looks pretty good from this point. 

Five days after soaking
and we have leaves.
I began sifting the potting soil we made last year before packing the flats for seeding this year and this did some good things. The first is that the remaining planting soil is excellent with no rocks, twigs, leaves, or bugs to work around. We pack the flat, or the pots on the flat, and then dust them with mycorrhizal powder and fish bone meal. Then we sift a light coating of planting soil on top and pat the thing down tightly. Afterward we poke a hole in the surface and put seed in, then sift a bit more soil on top to close up the holes.  All of these are new practices, so the outcomes aren't known.

I have been studying next steps for a few weeks. One of the next steps is to "up pot" the sprouts into larger pots while we wait for Spring heat to arrive and outdoor planting to begin. Eventually we will take the greenhouse starts we have in smaller cells and move them into bigger pots. To accomplish this better we found two new organic fertilizers to help kick things into higher gear. The first is a product called Garden Tone, which is a fish bone meal based potting fertilizer. We will mix this into the soil we pack into the larger pots and then move our sprouts into them to feed the plants once they get past their transplant shock. The fish bone meal shortens the time it takes to get past transplanting shocks so once things get growing again we will start root watering using a light solution of Chilean Nitrate fertilizer, in solution. 

Our new planting routine in action
Chilean Nitrate is the only high nitrogen fertilizer that comes plant ready, meaning that the  plant can use the stuff right away.  We have been using Blood Meal for nitrogen, but Blood Meal takes four to six weeks to become plant ready, so this is better. 

I will soon be building a sink in the greenhouse to soak fertilize flats in and then wash produce later.  Soaking the flats in a half inch of fertilizer water will feed the plants very well without the problems of leaf watering. We will drain the excess fertilized water off into a watering can and use it to feed plants already in the garden, so there won't be much waste. We have a few choices of sinks sitting out in storage, I think the laundry sink we used in the Tiny Home Cabin will work the best because it's lighter and smaller. 

All in all I am very happy with the results we have so far and hopeful that our new plans will give us the early results we need. The goal is to make this place profitable from produce and we seem to be headed in the right direction.


Sunday, March 10, 2024

March 10th, 2024 Thinking About Soil Science

 In the weeks coming up to early Spring, most of our plans are made and in place. We know pretty much what we are going to grow and where it will all go, before actually starting to put stuff into the ground. And, as we have in all previous years, we fail in enacting a large part of our plans for many reasons. Weather is the ecstatic part of our plan. Nature will do what it does and nothing we plan can change things. Planning is a static thing. We spend time learning new things, looking for pieces of a puzzle aimed at making the Farm produce stuff people will buy. Every year brings a new opportunity to do what we came to do when we bought this place and took up the work. The Farm has it's own schedule, if we fought this idea we'd lose. Despite all of this, every year I try to come up with ideas on how to get the job done. The New Year's Resolution habit has been something I've done for decades. I would pick one thing to learn, one thing to do, and learn to do it; the list of stuff I've learned is pretty overwhelming (you'd think one of them might have made money). Two years ago I spent my spare time looking at Compost stuff. Last year it was all about Pest Control. This year I'm hip deep in soil science. My focus is on improving the soil below the surface, without actually going down into the dirt to get there.

Last year's no-till effort was all about attracting the right sort of animals, worms, and discouraging the wrong sort, beetles. My brother remarked that he had left a straw bail on our soil for a week and when he opened it there were literally hundreds of Compost Worms trying to eat an entire Straw Bail,this  tells me the Compost Worms are abundant and happy. The questions of improving worms is the Earthworm population that actually lives in the soil, not Compost Worms  live in stuff above the soil surface, like piles of leaves and this prepares the compost for being made into Soil Organic Matter (SOM).  But Earthworms take in the clay, sand, and Soil Organic Matter and pass the mix through their digestive system. It comes out behind the worms in clumps which are covered over in digestive microbes.

These microbes release the nutrients they find pre-digested in these clumps. The microbes eat the clumps, they accumulate nutrients in their little bodies, and when they die the nutrition is released into the soil ready for plants to use. Clumping soil is also better because it has space for roots to grow where they will find water and ready nutrients ready for plants to use. But there's one more peice of the puzzle to think about and it takes a bit of learning.

Fungus is among us.  For our purposes I won't go into how fungi are everywhere, on everything, in the air we breath . . . The truth is Fungus is everywhere. But this is about garden soil fungus and there are a few basic types. The first are the Mushroomy sort of fungi that live on rotting wood. This sort of fungus s helpful to farming because it breaks down large wood that worms cannot eat. Permaculture farming is often based on putting logs under the dirt and eventually this leads into some really nutrient heavy soils which don't require much water. There are fungus that break down animal and vegetable matter and these are the things I am writing about today. Fungus processes dead things so once the microbes I wrote of earlier die off this makes room for fungus to come and break their little bodies into their useful parts. Once particular sort of fungi, the mycorrhizal  (literally "fungal root") type,  live on the surface of living root systems.  There are two basic types of mycorrhizal fungi I am spending time learning this year.  Both do basically the same job so I'll treat them the same.

Endo and Ecto Mycorrhizae live on plant roots and connect the roots to the soil in a broad web. The fungi finds loose bits of nutrition and water, carries it to the surface of plant root systems, and trades it for stuff the plants make, like sugars.  These fungi extend the effective size of a plant's roots, so less root is needed to support more plant, more fruiting. Endo Mycorrhizae does this best for annual plants, like Summer vegetables and flowers that live through the Winter in seeds. Ecto Mycorrhizae does this too, but with perennial plants that live through the Winter in the roots of plants.  Both of these types of fungi do much the same job, and just like other fungi they are literally everywhere, but the difference between a good garden and a really great garden is in making the conditions right for these two types of fungi to thrive in the soil all of the time. There's competition to think about.

There are a lot of fungal types, most do something of the same job, breaking down the dead into parts that life can use. These two types specialize in carrying this stuff down to plants in a symbiotic relationship, but the size of the fungal colony waxes and wains, depending on what is being grown. The right conditions are not always present to maintain a huge colony of Endo or Ecto types the whole year around, so colonies have to be re-established and those colonies have to re-grow into a useful size to support great plant growth. So the question becomes: If the soils is right, the worms are there, the microbes are dying in their millions . . .  How do we encourage the right sorts of fungi so that our plants can develop into living their best lives? So my experiment this year is to do a few things and see what happens. 

The first thing I will do has already started. The first things we did were to build a great soil mix so that the worms would come. part of this is to be really aware of soil compaction so that our worms weren't driving around harder soils, part of this was to establish a no-till system that didn't chew our worms up.  The worms brought the right sorts of microbes. Not mixing air into the soil encourages the right sorts of microbes and discourages the wrong sorts. Too much air encourages microbes that eat plant matter very quickly, so it isn't there to hold water or clump behind worms. Too little air ar the microbes we get work very slowly and give off methane gasses. The right sort carefully breaks down plant matter. These steps are already working today.

The second thing we need to do, the part of this year's plan where we make the change, is to put a bit of these Mycorrhizae type into the soil when we plant starts and seeds. Then maintain the soil with an eye toward encouraging the fungi to remain alive and healthy all the year around, so when we plant our veggies and flowers, there is already a thriving fungal community in place with stuff to offer the plants. This ought to encourage rapid plant development and make our short -bottom of a narrow valley- growing season to produce more and produce it more quickly. 

Our no-till system puts worm food on top, keeping our worms happy. Keeping our feet off the planting spaces and using soil watering systems keep our worm habitat happy. The worms spread the microbes, making the microbes happy. Feeding the worms and protecting the soil makes the microbial growth environment happy. If we put some of the Endo and Ecto Mycorrhizae directly on the roots of plants, or in places where seeds will sprout roots, our fungal colonies won't need to find roots to work with, making the fungi happy. And, finally, if the fungi become well entrenched in soils where things grow all of the time, the environment for plants will be completely happy.  Then we might be happy with the increase in produce that we can sell and spend the money on stuff that will make our farm happier.